2.06.2010

Defining Eye Shape: Application Tips

Lincoln, Nebraska Makeup Artist: Gretchen Wrenholt

Now that you have defined your eye shape, use specific application tips that work the best for it! Creating impressive eye makeup for your eye shape is all about playing up the positive characteristics and downplaying the challenging ones. By following these tips, you can find your best eye makeup look.

Note: Eye shadow shades that are shimmer/sheen, are best used on less mature eyes. When enhancing mature eyes, keep eye shadow as matte as possible, for a nicer finish.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave feedback.

Eye shape: Prominent
In order to downplay the domineering effect of protruding prominent eyes you should:
  • Apply contour shade to the eyelid, extended/blended into the crease, following brow arch
  • Apply midtone shade crease to brow bone, blended into brow bone, following brow arch
  • Apply highlight shade underneath the brow, from the arch outwards
  • Line the top with eyeliner, boldly or smudged
  • Line underneath with contour shade, smudged
  • Mascara heavy on upper lashes, lighter on lower
Eye shape: Basic
In order to add interest, form, and depth to basic eyes you should:
  • Apply natural matte highlight shade from lash to brow
  • Apply midtone neutral shade in the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply similar contour shade to the outer corner of the eye, blended
  • Apply highlight sheen/shimmer shade to the inner corner of the eye, to instantly brighten
  • Line the top with eyeliner or contour shade
  • Line underneath with midtone shade, smudged
  • Apply strip false lashes to the upper lashes (optional)
  • Mascara, medium on both upper/lower lashes
Eye shape: Downturned
In order to downplay the somber effect of downturned eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to inner three-fourths of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade from crease to brow bone, extended to end of the brow, blended
  • Line with midtone shade underneath the eye, smudged, and swooped 'up'
  • Apply contour shade to outer corner of the crease, extended to end of the brow, blended
  • Line the top with eyeliner, extended past the end of the eye, swooping 'up'
  • Apply highlight shade to the inner corner of the eye
  • Apply highlight shade underneath the brow, from the arch outwards
  • Apply individual false lashes to the upper outer corner lashes, to further lift the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on the outer corner
Eye shape: Almond
In order to help make almond shaped eyes appear larger and rounder you should:
  • Apply complimentary to eye color highlight shade from lash to brow bone
  • Apply similar midtone shade in crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply similar contour shade to the outer corner, rounded up then blended
  • Line the top with eyeliner or contour shade, just until the end of the eye
  • Apply individual false lashes to the upper outer corner lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on outer upper corner, lightest on lower
Eye shape: Wide Set
In order to downplay the broad distance between wide set eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to outer half to two-thirds of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to inner corner of the eyelid, blended into crease
  • Apply midtone shade in the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply contour shade to outer half to two-thirds of the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Line both the top/bottom lightly with eyeliner, smudged in the inner corner
  • Apply highlight shade with sheen underneath the brow from the arch outwards
  • Apply midtone shimmer/sheen shade to the inner corner of the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes heaviest from the center outwards
  • Fill in brows with brow powder a bit closer to the nose
Eye shape: Deep Set
In order to help draw attention and bring deep set eyes forward you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to the eyelid, extending it into the crease
  • Apply midtone shade heavily to outer two-thirds of brow bone, blended to create crease
  • Apply contour shade to outer corner of the eyelid, blended into brow bone
  • Line underneath with contour shade, blended
  • Line the top outer two-thirds, extended past length of the eye (if appropriate)
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, heavily on both upper/lower lashes
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye recede further
Eye shape: Hidden
In order to help brighten and bring depth to the sleepy/bedroom look of hidden eyes you should:
  • Apply midtone shade from lash to brow bone on inner one-third of the eyelid, blended
  • Apply contour shade from lash to brow bone on outer two-thirds of the eyelid, blended
  • Blend the line between shades and underneath the brow together, give the look of a lid
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Line the top with eyeliner, (liquid works great) 'cat like', smudged underneath
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heavily
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye appear smaller
Eye shape: Small
In order to help bring balance to the rest of the face, and enlarge small eyes you should:
  • Apply complimentary to eye color, highlight shade to the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Line both top/bottom, from the middle out, extended past length of eye, with a light color
  • Line the inner rims of the eye with white or pastel liner
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye appear smaller
Eye shape: Close Set
In order to help downplay the near distance between close set eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to inner half to two-thirds of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to outer half of crease, following brow arch, blended into brow bone
  • Apply contour shade to the outer corner of the eyelid, blended into the crease
  • Allow contour shade to be blended underneath the outer corner of the eye
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Apply shimmer/sheen highlight shade to inner corner of the eye
  • Line top/bottom (optional) on outer half/corner, extended past length of the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on the outer corner
  • Avoid dark shades in the inner corner of the eyelid
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