2.06.2010

Defining Eye Shape: Application Tips

Lincoln, Nebraska Makeup Artist: Gretchen Wrenholt

Now that you have defined your eye shape, use specific application tips that work the best for it! Creating impressive eye makeup for your eye shape is all about playing up the positive characteristics and downplaying the challenging ones. By following these tips, you can find your best eye makeup look.

Note: Eye shadow shades that are shimmer/sheen, are best used on less mature eyes. When enhancing mature eyes, keep eye shadow as matte as possible, for a nicer finish.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave feedback.

Eye shape: Prominent
In order to downplay the domineering effect of protruding prominent eyes you should:
  • Apply contour shade to the eyelid, extended/blended into the crease, following brow arch
  • Apply midtone shade crease to brow bone, blended into brow bone, following brow arch
  • Apply highlight shade underneath the brow, from the arch outwards
  • Line the top with eyeliner, boldly or smudged
  • Line underneath with contour shade, smudged
  • Mascara heavy on upper lashes, lighter on lower
Eye shape: Basic
In order to add interest, form, and depth to basic eyes you should:
  • Apply natural matte highlight shade from lash to brow
  • Apply midtone neutral shade in the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply similar contour shade to the outer corner of the eye, blended
  • Apply highlight sheen/shimmer shade to the inner corner of the eye, to instantly brighten
  • Line the top with eyeliner or contour shade
  • Line underneath with midtone shade, smudged
  • Apply strip false lashes to the upper lashes (optional)
  • Mascara, medium on both upper/lower lashes
Eye shape: Downturned
In order to downplay the somber effect of downturned eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to inner three-fourths of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade from crease to brow bone, extended to end of the brow, blended
  • Line with midtone shade underneath the eye, smudged, and swooped 'up'
  • Apply contour shade to outer corner of the crease, extended to end of the brow, blended
  • Line the top with eyeliner, extended past the end of the eye, swooping 'up'
  • Apply highlight shade to the inner corner of the eye
  • Apply highlight shade underneath the brow, from the arch outwards
  • Apply individual false lashes to the upper outer corner lashes, to further lift the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on the outer corner
Eye shape: Almond
In order to help make almond shaped eyes appear larger and rounder you should:
  • Apply complimentary to eye color highlight shade from lash to brow bone
  • Apply similar midtone shade in crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply similar contour shade to the outer corner, rounded up then blended
  • Line the top with eyeliner or contour shade, just until the end of the eye
  • Apply individual false lashes to the upper outer corner lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on outer upper corner, lightest on lower
Eye shape: Wide Set
In order to downplay the broad distance between wide set eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to outer half to two-thirds of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to inner corner of the eyelid, blended into crease
  • Apply midtone shade in the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply contour shade to outer half to two-thirds of the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Line both the top/bottom lightly with eyeliner, smudged in the inner corner
  • Apply highlight shade with sheen underneath the brow from the arch outwards
  • Apply midtone shimmer/sheen shade to the inner corner of the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes heaviest from the center outwards
  • Fill in brows with brow powder a bit closer to the nose
Eye shape: Deep Set
In order to help draw attention and bring deep set eyes forward you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to the eyelid, extending it into the crease
  • Apply midtone shade heavily to outer two-thirds of brow bone, blended to create crease
  • Apply contour shade to outer corner of the eyelid, blended into brow bone
  • Line underneath with contour shade, blended
  • Line the top outer two-thirds, extended past length of the eye (if appropriate)
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, heavily on both upper/lower lashes
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye recede further
Eye shape: Hidden
In order to help brighten and bring depth to the sleepy/bedroom look of hidden eyes you should:
  • Apply midtone shade from lash to brow bone on inner one-third of the eyelid, blended
  • Apply contour shade from lash to brow bone on outer two-thirds of the eyelid, blended
  • Blend the line between shades and underneath the brow together, give the look of a lid
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Line the top with eyeliner, (liquid works great) 'cat like', smudged underneath
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heavily
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye appear smaller
Eye shape: Small
In order to help bring balance to the rest of the face, and enlarge small eyes you should:
  • Apply complimentary to eye color, highlight shade to the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to the crease, blended into brow bone
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Line both top/bottom, from the middle out, extended past length of eye, with a light color
  • Line the inner rims of the eye with white or pastel liner
  • Apply strip false lashes to upper lashes
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes
  • Avoid dark, rich colors which make the eye appear smaller
Eye shape: Close Set
In order to help downplay the near distance between close set eyes you should:
  • Apply highlight shade to inner half to two-thirds of the eyelid
  • Apply midtone shade to outer half of crease, following brow arch, blended into brow bone
  • Apply contour shade to the outer corner of the eyelid, blended into the crease
  • Allow contour shade to be blended underneath the outer corner of the eye
  • Apply highlight shade underneath of the brow
  • Apply shimmer/sheen highlight shade to inner corner of the eye
  • Line top/bottom (optional) on outer half/corner, extended past length of the eye
  • Mascara, on both upper/lower lashes, heaviest on the outer corner
  • Avoid dark shades in the inner corner of the eyelid
© 2010 GretchElizArtistry

1.26.2010

Defining Eye Shape: Celebrities With Your Eye Shape

Lincoln, Nebraska Makeup Artist: Gretchen Wrenholt


To further help you define your eye shape, I have put together a list of celebrity eye shapes. I still can't believe there is no such list like this available online for makeup artists! It was intriguing putting it together. Now, more than ever, I have no doubt, that every eye shape out there, is gorgeous in its own way.

To use this list as an individual: See the a name or two that matches up with the eye shape that you think you may have. Google image their name, and take a peak at some more photos! Were you right?

To use this list as a makeup artist: Study this list, look at the photos, and be sure to read my next blog on "makeup application for specific eye shapes". I promise you, this will improve your artistry skills ten fold!

Eye shape: Prominent
Cher
Kristin Scott Thomas
Mena Suvari
Natalie Imbruglia
Penelope Cruz


Eye shape: Basic
Alicia Keys
Angelina Jolie
Beyoncé
Emily Blunt
Kim Kardashian
Shakira

Eye shape: Downturned

Brittany Spears
Jennifer Aniston
Kate Beckinsale
Katie Holmes
Kristin Davis
Maggie Gyllenhaal

Eye shape: Almond
Ashanti
Amy Smart
Joss Stone
Kat Von D
Kristin Stewart
Taylor Swift

Eye shape: Wide Set
Agyness Deyn
Amanda Seyfried
Kate Moss
Mandy Moore
Rhianna
Zhou Xun

Eye shape: Deep Set
Andie MacDowell
Blake Lively
Eva Herzigova
Nicole Kidman
Renee Zellwegger


Eye shape: Hidden
Anna Popplewell
Avril Lavigne
Leann Rimes
Liv Tyler
Maggie Q

Eye shape: Small
Allison Pill
Anna Paquin
Bar Rafaeli
Geena Davis
Jennifer Garner
Minnie Driver
Eye shape: Close Set
Amber Valetta
Alice Dellal
Ashley Tisdale
Celine Dion
Claudia Schiffer
Jennifer Love Hewitt
Keira Knightley
Paris Hilton

Eye shape: 50/50
Devon Aoki-Almond & Wide Set
Kat Cole-Prominent & Wide Set
Kimberly Stewart-Almond & Close Set
Lucy Liu-Almond & Hidden
Rumer Willis-Small & Close Set
Sarah Jessica Parker-Small & Close Set


© 2010 GretchElizArtistry

1.20.2010

Basic Makeup: Defining Eye Shape


Lincoln, Nebraska Makeup Artist: Gretchen Wrenholt
http://www.gretchelizartistry.com

The eyes are often described as the window into the soul. Perfecting eye makeup application is the most sought after makeup technique. I wish I had a new lipstick for every time a woman has told me during class, or a makeup application lesson that they "don't like their eye shape", and they "have no idea where the eyeshadow or eyeliner should go". Wow, now that would be a serious collection of lipsticks. Right now, I am imagining scads of Chanel, MAC, Stila, Smashbox, and Sephora lipsticks. I love that, I wish that!


Makeup application should be appropriate for your eye shape. Using correct makeup application for your eye shape will ensure that your sparkling beauties leave a stunning impression on everyone.

Women tend to be overly judgmental about their eye shape. It is crucial to realize that each and every eye shape is beautiful, and has lovely unique characteristics. However, it is true that some eye shapes are easier to identify, and work with than others.

Sometimes people have combination eyes, and so makeup application can get tricky. My advice to women with combination eyes, is to find out what eye shape you are the most. For example, if you are deep set, and your eyes themselves are also close together, which are you more, deep or close set? However, if the characteristics seem to be 50/50, then likely either application for deep or close set eyes can be used. Once you go through the eye makeup application, the best steps evolve naturally. (Application tips for eye shapes in a blog to follow.)

Appropriate eye makeup application just takes practice. No matter what eye shape you have, you can learn how to beautifully enhance it. Following are photos of the most common eye shapes. If you are still unsure which eye shape you have, show a friend the photos and have them help you. Also, flip through your favorite magazine, and try to find eye shapes similar to yours. It helps to look at a lot of photos.

Please note, it can be difficult to "perfectly" define eye shape from a photo, due to camera angle, lighting, makeup, etc. Use the following photos as a general guideline.


1. This is me! Eye shape: Prominent


2. Eye shape: Prominent


3. Eye shape: Basic


4. Eye shape: Basic


5. Eye shape: Downturned


6. Eye shape: Almond


7. Eye shape: Wide Set


6. Eye shape: Deep Set


9. Eye shape: Hidden


10. Eye shape: Small


11. Eye shape: Close Set


12. Eye shape: Hidden & Close Set


13. Eye shape: Hidden & Wide Set


14. Eye shape: Deep & Close Set

© 2010 GretchElizArtistry

 

Copyright © 2012-2013 makeup with heart by Gretchen Wrenholt